Cultivation Difficulty: Easy
Type: Edible
Substrate: Pasteurized straw, wood chips, sawdust, various grains, coffee grounds, agricultural waste, newspaper and cardboard.
Colonization/Fruiting Temperatures 70-75F/60-70F

Everything you need to start exploring the wonders of edible mushroom cultivation! These kits include the Oyster Mushroom Culture and a number of our pre-sterilized Straw Based Mushroom Bags.

The Small kit includes one Bag and 3cc culture syringe.
The Medium kit includes four Bags and a 10cc culture syringe.

This is the common temperate Oyster mushroom. Depending on substrate, light and temperature, Pearl oysters will vary in coloration from white to gray and brown. Generally, more intense light will produce a darker coloration. Pearl Oysters are an adaptable species that fruits easily on a wide range of substrates and are good candidates for recycling wood and paper waste into edible mushrooms.

As with all oyster mushrooms, Pearl oysters need plenty of fresh air to develop normally. High carbon dioxide levels from mushroom metabolism will accumulate in sealed growing environments and can reduce cap size and elongate stems severely.

Fruiting in open humidity chambers with frequent fresh air exchange will produce best possible yields.

Each Oyster Mushroom Kit includes a number of pre-sterilized substrate Bags specially designed for straw and grass loving mushrooms. Also included is enough culture material to get each bag started and a plastic humidity tent for fruiting. A filter patch is attached to each Bag to allow for gas exchange during colonization and fruiting.

The Bags measure 4'' wide, 3'' deep, and 18'' tall and contains approximately one pound of sterilized substrate.

To use, simply unfold the Bag, allowing the extra material to stand straight up.

Locate the small foam disk sealed and attached in a plastic housing near the base of the Bag. This disc is the self-healing injector site. Note: The disc will be covered by a small plastic shield. Do not attempt to remove the plastic covering the disc, you will inject through it. Sterilize a small section of the outside of the Bag (on the plastic shield) directly over the foam disc with an alcohol soaked wipe. With the same alcohol soaked wipe, sterilize the needle on your culture syringe.

Inoculate the substrate with culture syringe solution by inserting the needle completely through the self-healing plastic shield and foam disc at the previously sterilized spot. Squirt 1-3cc of solution directly into the substrate material.

DO NOT insert the needle through the white filter patch found near the top of the Bag.

Place the kit's Bag(s) in a dark location and incubate at species specific parameters (listed in species description pages). It is recommend to store the Bag fully extended as developing Mycelia will give off gases that will slowly expand the interior of the Bag. This ballooning effect is helpful in proper air exchange and culture development.

Note: During drier summer months it is advisable to store the Bag in a humid location. Excessively dry environments may draw moisture from the Bags.

Approximately two weeks from injection you will begin to notice the development of mushroom mycelium or ''root network'' inside the bag. This ropey, white, mold-like growth will begin to spread throughout the substrate material, consuming available nutrients. Speed of colonization is directly affected by incubation temps, cold temps will slow development, while excessively warm temps may harm the mycelium.

When the bag is completely covered with white mushroom mycelium, it is said to be 100% colonized and ready for fruiting. At this point puncture or cut small ''x's'' into the sides of the bag at mid-substrate level about two inches apart. As pictured at right, the mushrooms will begin to form and grow from these slits or punctures.

Place the punctured bag on a small plate and drape the supplied humidity tent over the bag and plate. Rolling up the sides of the humidity tent will help create a stable base to keep the bag material from flopping over. A wire coat hanger can also be creatively utilized to form a makeshift frame for the humidity tent. Place the covered kit in a location where temps are within the species fruiting range (usually 10 F lower than the incubation temperature). Begin light exposure with filtered sunlight or indoor lighting for approximately 12 hours daily.

Mist the interior of the humidity tent with a hand sprayer of distilled or bottled water every day to maintain high humidity. Mist often enough to keep water droplets formed on the inside of the humidity tent. The quarter sized holes in the humidity tent allow for constant fresh air exchange, which is critical for Oyster mushrooms to develop properly. Within several days you will notice the development of small clusters (primordia) forming from the puncture points. The primordia will develop into larger more distinguished fruits over the course of 4-7 days.

The supplied humidity tent is sufficient for producing a good crop of mushrooms, however increased yields can be obtained by constructing a more permanent structure. Rubbermade storage bins are often used in this capacity and will provide a stable environment for your developing mushrooms. Fresh air must be supplied as often as possible and high humidity must be maintained, daily fanning and misting will still be required. Creative use of fans or humidification devices can provide an automated growing environment for your mushrooms.

Tested and proven, this all you need to begin your journey in the art and science of mushroom cultivation.